A Pirate's Life Is a Wonderful Life...On North Carolina's Outer Banks
by Krysten Davis
The Outer Banks have long been known for their beautiful beaches and sumptuous resorts. With the discovery and excavation of the pirate ship Queen Anne’s Revenge in North Carolina’s Beaufort Inlet, however, the spotlight has turned from the beauty of the waters to the allure of what may lie beneath them.
North Carolina was a pirate haven in the 1700s, thanks to its many shallow sounds and inlets and a local population that welcomed the fruits of smuggling and piracy. The shallow waters, as well as many dangerous cross-currents, also made shipwrecks common, earning the region the nickname “Graveyard of the Atlantic.” It only stands to reason, then, that eventually underwater archaeologists would come upon wrecks of the notorious pirate vessels that once sailed the treacherous waters—as they did in 1996, when Queen Anne’s Revenge was first discovered. While it’s been more than a decade since the ship was discovered, it’s only recently that archaeologists have been able to declare with confidence that the wreck is indeed the vessel they believed it to be: Queen Anne’s Revenge, flagship of the notorious pirate Blackbeard.
Far from the Hollywood fiction many believe him to be, Blackbeard was a very real presence during the Golden Age of Piracy, a Machiavellian mastermind who used intimidation and rumor to his advantage against his victims. His ferocious appearance and bloody reputation made many believe that he was in league with the Devil himself, so he encouraged the rumors by hiding burning corks in his hair and beard before battle, wreathing his face in diabolical plumes of smoke. His flag, a horned and cloven-hooved skeleton bearing an hourglass and spearing a bloody heart, delivered a clear message to those who would oppose him: devilish Blackbeard had come to call, and time was running out.
Today, locals all along North Carolina’s coast will happily relate their favorite Blackbeard legends and ghost stories to visitors, and the curators of the many pirate- and shipwreck-themed museums and exhibits will defend their favorite theories about the life and death of the infamous pirate, who, in addition to hiding out in these waters, fought his last battle off the coast of the Outer Banks’ Ocracoke Island. Visitors can learn about the true stories that gave rise to the Hollywood films and view the relics that inspired props used in the Pirates of the Caribbean movies (as well as a few props from the movies themselves). Guests may also participate in piratical adventures of their own, ranging from ghost tours to kayaking adventures along routes believed to have been sailed by Blackbeard himself.
Of course, just because you make a pirate pilgrimage to the Outer Banks doesn’t mean you have to sleep in a hammock or subsist on grog and hardtack—in addition to its rich historical resources, the region is also home to some of the finest restaurants, resorts, and other tourist accommodations in the country, as well as miles upon miles of unspoiled beaches guaranteed to appeal to any visitor, whether you’re a fishing or boating enthusiast, would-be hang-glider or kiteboarder, or just want to soak up the sun on a beautiful beach. We’ve compiled a brief list of some of the region’s most attractive destinations, and we think that if you go, you’ll agree—a pirate’s life on the Outer Banks is a wonderful life indeed.
If You Go…
Amos Mosquito’s, Atlantic Beach, NC
http://www.amosmosquitos.com/
A waterfront restaurant with a charming interior that plays up its name with coastal decor; their coconut shrimp and shrimp & grits are to die for.
Breakwater Inn and Restaurant, Hatteras Village, NC
http://www.breakwaterhatteras.com/
Right in the middle of historic Hatteras Village, the Breakwater mingles historic charm with modern comfort. The photographs in the restaurant document the history of Hatteras Village, while the many windows offer a panoramic view of the waterfront liable to steal your breath away.
Cape Lookout Lighthouse, Cape Lookout, NC
http://www.nps.gov/calo/index.htm
Take the ferry from Beaufort to Cape Lookout National Seashore—on the way you may see dolphins, sea turtles, and the famous wild Shackleford ponies, which live on the sandbars surrounding the cape. Climb the lighthouse and visit the keeper’s quarters museum.
Cape Hatteras Lighthouse, Cape Hatteras, NC
http://www.nps.gov/caha/planyourvisit/climbing-the-cape-hatteras-lighthouse.htm
Climb the tallest lighthouse in North America and gaze out over the treacherous Diamond Shoals, the cause of countless shipwrecks.
Chefs 105, Morehead City, NC
http://www.chefs105.com/
Gourmet cuisine to beat any rival. Their fish are incredibly fresh, caught that day and brought straight to the restaurant. Try the bacon-wrapped figs, heirloom tomato salad, and zuppa di pesce.
Chicamacomico Lifesaving Station, Rodanthe, NC
http://www.chicamacomico.net/
Before the Coast Guard, the brave men of the U.S. Life-Saving Service rescued over 177,000 souls in the course of their 44-year history. Chicamacomico, the oldest USLSS station still in existence, has been preserved as a museum and monument to their incredible courage. Visit the museum to learn about the men whose motto was, “The rules say we gotta go out—they don’t say nothin’ about coming back.”
Full Moon Cafe and Brewery, Manteo, NC
http://www.thefullmooncafe.com/
Delicious dishes and locally brewed beer make this Manteo cafe a must-visit.
Graveyard of the Atlantic Museum, Hatteras, NC
http://www.graveyardoftheatlantic.com/
A rapidly-expanding museum dedicated to preserving the relics of the thousands of ships lost along North Carolina’s coast, the Graveyard of the Atlantic boasts relics that range from ancient Judean and Egyptian coins to a German Enigma code machine recently recovered from the wreck of a WWII U-Boat.
Howard’s Pub, Ocracoke, NC
http://www.howardspub.com/ordereze/default.aspx
This locals’ haunt is open year-round It’s the best place to meet colorful characters, and also to sample some of the best pub fare around—we recommend their North Carolina BBQ burger.
Jennette’s Pier
http://www.jennettespier.net/
This Lede-certified pier was designed to be both a recreational fishing spot and a research and educational tool. Take the kids for an educational and enjoyable afternoon catching fish and learning about the local environment.
Kitty Hawk Kites, Outer Banks, NC
http://www.kittyhawk.com/kayaking/introduction.cfm
Kitty Hawk offers recreational opportunities ranging from hang-gliding and parasailing to wild horse and dolphin tours. We recommend trying the Blackbeard kayaking tour, which takes you and your family down routes believed to have been traveled by the notorious pirate.
North Carolina Maritime Museum, Beaufort, NC
http://www.ncmaritimemuseum.org/
The Maritime Museum is the place to go to see the relics from Blackbeard’s flagship that have already undergone restoration. The exhibit takes up fully one-third of the museum and includes weapons, medical apparatus, gold dust and other trade items, as well as pieces of the ship itself. Learn about the restoration process and what treasures are yet to come.
Pamlico Jack’s Pirate Hideaway, Nags Head, NC
http://www.pamlicojacks.com/
Pamlico Jack’s is gleefully kitschy—guests dine on a full-scale replica of a pirate ship while “Cap’n Darby,” pirate host, cheerfully passes out pieces of eight to all and sundry. Maybe he threatens to make the cooks walk the plank if their dishes aren’t up to par—everything we tried there was totally shipshape.
Rodanthe House, Rodanthe, NC
http://visitnorthcarolina.blogspot.com/2010/05/rodanthe-house-back-in-business.html
The romantic inn featured in Nights in Rodanthe can be yours for a time—it’s now a vacation rental.
Sheraton Atlantic Beach, Atlantic Beach, NC
http://www.sheratonatlanticbeach.com/
Seconds from the water, guests at the waterfront Sheraton Atlantic Beach can open their balcony doors and be lulled to sleep by the sound of the surf. If your little pirates aren’t the strongest swimmers, don’t worry—the surf is calm, and the hotel has an indoor and an outdoor pool just in case you’d like to keep the kids swimming on the premises.
Teach’s Hole Blackbeard Exhibit & Specialty Shop, Ocracoke, NC
http://www.teachshole.com/
The only exhibit devoted entirely to the fearsome pirate—a must-see if you make your way out to Ocracoke.
Tranquil House Inn, Manteo, NC
http://1587.com/
One of the most charming inns we’ve ever encountered, with deck balconies facing the Manteo waterfront.
Village Craftsmen, Ocracoke Island, NC
http://villagecraftsmen.com/
Run by local storyteller and lifelong island resident Philip Howard, The Village Craftsmen is the place to go on Ocracoke for unique souvenirs as well as a bit of local history. If you should catch Mr. Howard in his shop, feel free to ask him what happened to Blackbeard’s head after his death!
Waves Village, Rodanthe, NC
http://www.outer-banks.com/wavesvillage/
Billed as “The Hatteras Kiteboarding Resort,” Waves Village features something for the whole family. Take hang-gliding or kiteboarding lessons, rent a vacation condo, fly kites on the beach, charter a kayaking tour, shop for souvenirs, and take in a meal at the excellent Goodwinds Restaurant—all within a convenient waterfront complex.
Visit http://www.visitnc.com/journeys/articles/pirates-of-the-nc-coast to plan your own pirate tour.
To learn about the coastal cuisine of North Carolina, visit The Pirate’s Table.
Additional Resources
The Last Days of Black Beard the Pirate • by Kevin Duffus
Little is known for certain about the life of the notorious pirate—which very well may be why his legend continues to fascinate us. Duffus’s book is partly a painstaking reconstruction of the pirate’s last days based on historical fact, partly conjecture based on research to fill in the gaps. The author is both a conscientious historian and a fine storyteller, which means that he is careful to distinguish fact from speculation and that his speculations are equally as fascinating as his research, if not more so.
Pirates, Ghosts, and Coastal Lore: The Best of Judge Whedbee • by Charles Harry Whedbee
Charles Whedbee was a beloved historian and storyteller of the Outer Banks, whose volumes of ghost stories, pirate legends, and coastal lore have gone through dozens of printings since their first publication in the 1960s. This book collects thirteen of his best-loved tales and should serve to whet your appetite for the many bits of folklore you’re likely to collect on your trip.
Graveyard of the Atlantic • by David Stick
A factual narrative more compelling than most fiction, Stick’s Graveyard of the Atlantic remains the classic narrative of shipwrecks on the Outer Banks, and a riveting read for anyone interested in ships, shipwrecks, maritime life, or Outer Banks culture.
Shipwrecks of the Outer Banks: An Illustrated Guide • by Kevin Duffus
Conceived as a photographic companion to Stick’s Graveyard of the Atlantic, Duffus’s Shipwrecks of the Outer Banks is a visual record of shipwrecks and their legacy. His narrative encompasses various causes of shipwrecks along the Outer Banks, reconstructions of what being in a wreck would have been like for passengers and crew members, and a few incredible true stories of daring rescues. A must-read for shipwreck and history buffs visiting the area.
Fire on the Beach • by David Wright and David Zoby
Chicamacomico may be the oldest life-saving station on the Outer Banks, but it was by no means the only station operational during the heyday of the U.S. Life-Saving Service. Fire on the Beach is the story of Pea Island, another such station, and its all-African-American crew under the leadership of Richard Etheridge. The incredible bravery of the U.S. Life-Saving Service is highlighted in this historical narrative by the additional difficulties faced by Etheridge and his crew as a segregated unit, and their triumphs are all the more remarkable for the additional odds stacked against them.
